HWS managed to get a Q&A with my good pal Roo Oxley author of the book Clobber, model and Terrace Girl on her recent visit to Glasgow. It was good to get a sit down and chat on subcultures and put it on paper. We met in McCHuills Bar in the Merchant City as we always try to do. She is one cool lady and the Guinness did flow.
Photo by Richard Kelly
Ayup lass, thanks for meeting us, how’s things?
Ayup Chop, all sound thank you, hope you’re orate?
All good chick …
So, to kick off, I read that you were crowd-watching at Stoke matches and seeing what I would describe as a working-class catwalk is this where you started your love-in with casual labels?
Yeah it was at the matches in the late ‘90s but also spilled out into what the lads were wearing anyway. Stoke was a town of football casuals, so a lot of dressers were milling about.
Photo by Richard Kelly
I have heard you say ‘it’s how you wear it’ I believe that also, I think sometimes you need to mix it up a bit would you agree?
Totally. No one should wear such identikit boring uniforms, all rack-ready badged up. Be creative and just wear what you want to wear! I still pull out loads of old nineties’ pieces and mix it with new stuff, be it CP or Primark. Wear what suits your style, and if you haven’t worked out your style by now, then you’re fucked and clearly just don’t have any!
Agreed, I think it was Andy Weatherall that said ‘fashion is temporary—style is permanent’ fashion is just something you do until you find your own sense of style.
Well as Coco Chanel also said, fashion fades only style remains the same. Fashion is fleeting but you need to be aware of it so as not to be stuck in the same old sartorial hole. You need fashion to evolve your own sense of style. Fashion should enhance, guide and teach you what you already know- to have style is to know which bits of fashion suits and underpins your personal style.
Photo by Richard Kelly
We must do this one, can you give us your top five tunes?
I’m Only Sleeping —The Beatles
Gimme Shelter — Rolling Stones
Massive Attack—Unfinished Symphony
Rhythm Foundation—Let the Whole World Know
Oasis—Slide Away
Oh and top three thread labels?
Aquascutum
Tacchini
(Vintage) Stone Island
Photo by Richard Kelly
Do you have a favourite DJ from over the years.
I used to live and work in Ibiza so seen all the big ones from that era, like Carl Cox, Sasha and co, but my favourites are Stoke legends Pete Bromley and Daz Willott.
80s Casuals Classics shop has been in Glasgow for over a year now and is always worth a visit, I see you are wearing Gabbici, is that label you wear a lot of? I think it’s a quality thread and a decent price.
Yeah I love the mod vibe of Gabbici and Neil Primett has done a great job of bringing attention back to the label at 80s Casual Classics. What I’ve had recently has been really smart.
Photo by Richard Kelly
Do you think modern-day ‘soccer’ is part of the reason why a lot of us still wear Terrace clobber, as we feel it is perhaps a heritage thing that is being taken away from us?
I cover this in more detail in my latest book, ‘Clobber!’ but the football scene, and the terrace culture that went with it, is pretty much dead. People who affiliate with it, or indeed any subcultures such as mod, rave etc, will still wear clothes that represent the era that makes up such a big part of their identity. Modern football is so soulless that the last subculture that preceded this—the Casuals, is something that many cling onto, out of nostalgia, or just because it looked (still looks) cool as fuck.
Photo by Richard Kelly
What’s your opinion on Glasgow and McCHuills Bar?
It’s a pisser, great craic —I’ve been asked to come back. And if I don’t come back I’ll be kidnapped 😉
Photo by Richard Kelly
What has the casual scene brought to your life as a woman, and what do your female friends think of your involvement in it?
That my friend, is all to be revealed in book number 2!
What are your hopes and expectations for Stoke City next season?
Same as every season- hope for the best, expect the worst. Expect Stoke City!
Thanks for coming Roo x
No worries.
Thanks to Paul Kealy as always, also Neil Primmet, Nick from McCHuills and Richard Kelly for coming along and doing the photos.
* Roo Oxley is a freelance writer born and bred in Stoke-on-Trent. A football girl, Roo has long attended Stoke City football games both home and away. With a master’s degree in marketing and a successful career in marketing following this, Roo has written about subcultures, music, fashion and football but with a particular interest in terrace casuals. Dressed impeccably always, Roo ultimately knows her clobber, inside and out. One of the leading and most well-known female casuals today, Roo intends to continue to write about her one true passion:
Ourselves Alone, bold and green, Stands a man of steel, a goalkeeper supreme, Joe Hart, his name echoes through the roar, In the heart of the faithful, forevermore.
From England’s shores, your journey began, To Glasgow’s Paradise, as our anchorman With gloves of grace and courage unbound, You guard the goal, where dreams are found.
In the shadows of our towering stands, You stand tall, another guardian of Celtic’s lands, With every dive, a testament of pride, In the green and white, you will never hide.
Through fierce battles and Celtic’s chant, Joe Hart, the keeper, valiant and gallant, A comrade in the storm, a beacon bright, For victory’s glory, you’ll fiercely fight.
In Celtic’s tapestry your name is sewn, Warrior in green, of the keeper’s throne, With each save, a tale of triumph unfurled, In our saga of heroes, you’ll be known around the world.
With sun ablaze and sky so clear This day of dreams on which we cheer The hallowed trophy pride of the land The league is ours, our spirits grand.
The banners wave the crowd ignites A sea of green our hearts delights Our hoops we wear with pride so proud Songs of victory we chant so loud
From early battles, fierce and tight To final whistles, pure delight A journey carved in sweat and tears We raise the cup and dispel our fears
Legends past and heroes new Together bind for me and you In every heart, the fire burns For every goal, the tide it turns
So on this day, we stand as one Beneath the Lords blazing sun The league is ours, the dream fulfilled With passion pure our hearts so thrilled
The voices rise and joy takes flight In Celtic Park, the magic ignites The league trophy, bright and true Belongs to us, the faithful through and through
For in this moment, time stands still With every roar, our hearts are filled The Bhoys have done us proud this day, In victorios green, we’ll always stay…
Welcome Neil, cheers for dropping by, it is a pleasure to have you in as a Q&A guest at last – how are you?
My head is all over the place at the moment to be honest with you, I’ve had a very challenging week but on the flip side I’m incredibly glad to be alive. I’m not one to make a fuss, yeah I’m alright now honestly. I’ve had a Guinness, let’s move on.
Starting off with your love for mountain wear jackets, what came first, the passion for their style on the terrace or the rambling and hiking I see you are doing these days?
I’d say posing came way before hiking, though as a kid I did spend most of my time running up and down valleys and making dens in forests so maybe it’s always been there? Back in the late 80s my best mate Barclay was bang into his climbing which coincided with us both getting into acid house. He already knew his way around an outdoor shop and so we would spend many an hour in places like Alpenstock in Stockport or Magic Mountain in Glossop planning our outdoor outfits for a mad weekend getting high in Manchester rather than the Matterhorn. I should probably mention that I’m not really a football fan either so the terraces have never had much of an effect on me, apart from when I lived in Tuscany and used to go to the odd Fiorentina game which taught me a plethora of offensive hand signals.
I must ask, you were the co-editor at Proper Mag? I always liked it for a bit of a laugh and piss-take as much as anything else, how did the idea come about?
Yeah, back when it wasn’t just about gorpcore and house plants. It was created in a perfect storm of having a job with lots of down time alongside a strong desire to blag free jackets whilst having an innate need to make my mates piss themselves laughing whilst reading it. I miss you Mark, please get in touch to let us know you’re safe and sound.
Stockport County is your team, do you still go?
If it’s kicking off then yes I am 100% SCFC but as mentioned football isn’t really my bag. I did go to quite a few matches with my aforementioned mate and die hard supporter Mark but I’d find myself losing the will to live and would end up watching the weirder fans rather than the action on the pitch. I did see them beat Man City though which was really funny, our end were singing ‘are you County in disguise?’ to a sea of angry ‘Berts’ I believe they’re called.
Are you still DJing?
Since moving house last December I’ve not managed to set my decks up so I’m a bit out of the loop. My mates at ace menswear brand Bound did invite me over to DJ at their pop up event recently in Manchester but they didn’t realise I only spin on vinyl. Which meant I’d spent £100 on eighties gay European disco records in vain and that they no longer reply to my letters begging for a new pair of their cords. Honestly they’re amazing.
If I was to ask for a favourite shoe would it come from Adidas SPZL range?
Without a doubt the Cote that Gary brought out in around 2016 I think. Around the time of the MCR exhibition I mithered him to reissue the Beach, not knowing that he was already on it with the creation of the Cote. I recently asked him to do an adidas Spezial ‘Bredbury Green’ because that’s pretty much where the UK HQ was when I worked there back in the day and their main offices are still just up the road in Hazel Grove. So watch this space all you fans of Stockport themed sports shoes. If he does another Lancashire based one I’m really going to throw my sambas out of the pram.
What projects have you got on the go these days?
I’ve got my irons in a few pies and my fingers in a couple of fires but my regular gigs are doing the PR for the amazing Swedish outdoor brands Haglofs and Dometic as well as working with the guys at Eddie Bauer. I’m also part of a hiking/climbing collective called Outdoor Licence whose ethos is to demystify the outdoors and get as many people out enjoying the hills as possible. Give us a follow and drop me a line if you fancy going up a hill with us https://www.instagram.com/outdoorlicence/
As Terry Hall once said … How do you feel these days about the Tory government and the shit they’re leading us into …
Oh Terry, why did you have to leave us? Tell me why, tell me why, tell me why?
When a man who is most famous for his incredibly creepy impersonation of a cat is capable of putting the entire government to shame (both left and right) then it’s a sad day for British politics isn’t it? I feel like we’ve all come to accept corruption and ineptitude as perfectly normal. I’m still amazed that those chinless dickheads who went round in a bus spreading lies about Europe haven’t been hung, drawn and quartered for completely fucking up our economy. I might move back to France, those lads really know how to kick off when it comes to political injustice BRING FORTH THE GUILLOTINE! Speaking of which, have you heard that new Frankie Boyle podcast btw? He should be running the country.
I recall you were one of the first wearing Fjallraven around 20 years ago, is it still a favourite?
I still have one or two vintage pieces but there’s only really room for one Swedish outdoor brand in my life and that’s Haglofs.
Standardly it’s time to give us your five favourite tunes ..
Ah man that’s kind of impossible but here’s what came to mind immediately….
Redondo Beach – Patti Smith
Kilburn Towers – Bee Gees
Waterfall – Wendy & Lisa
Gates of Heaven – Mary Wallopers
Flashlights (Leo Zero Disco version) – Mica Miller
Have you had a look at the Magnetic book archive by Tony Rivers & James Burnnet?
Yeah it’s terrific innit? I don’t know James but I’ve known Tony since the 80s Casuals forum days in the early noughties so I wasn’t surprised that it was a really in depth and clued up read. I was particularly chuffed to see my mate John Poland had written a piece about a mate of his (from Stockport I might add) who was wearing Stone Island when most of us were still getting our heads around Kappa. Who knew Nick Heywood was a dresser too?
Can you give us an IN and an OUT for this week?
OUT
Telling Emily Maitlis to fuck off when she questions you about Jewish space lazers
VAT
Lee Anderson’s Imagination
Watching Big Brother
Italian brands sending swag to all your mates (but not you)
Skriking in a hotel
IN
Politely saying’ thank you’ to an American conspiracy theorist when they tell you to fuck off
LSD
Leee John from Imagination
Reading 1984
Rock stars habitually name-dropping you in their podcast (thanks Blossoms)
Hiking with Andy Votel
This will be tough can you give us your five top jackets?
This is the same as music in that I don’t have favourites, but I will tell you what I currently have in heavy rotation on my groaning coat rack….
TNF Purple Label Short Mountain Parka
Fresh Store Frida Fleece
Haglofs LIM ZT Mountain GTX Jacket
Natal Design Big ISDO Jacket
C.P. Company x Barbour Explorer
Have you any plans to tackle any hills or mountains up here in Scotland?
I really really want to go to Skye but haven’t made it there yet. My mate Liam from Edinburgh is an amazing climber and I’d love to go for a hike in the hills with him too though I fear he’d probably take me where I’d end up needing a helicopter and a defibrillator to get home. I might just admire him from afar on instagram instead, check him out, he’s a total legend https://www.instagram.com/liamjscott/
Finally, can you give us the name of your favourite crisps?
This may surprise you but I’m not that fussed about crisps though I am very middle class at least in what I eat if not my bank account. So I’ll say Torres Tapas Fried Egg flavour. De nada x
To some Celtic is just a club As silly as it may seem It captures the imagination Fulfils aspirations and lifelong dreams
For the global family of Celtic This club is part of life and inspiration A switch off from the troubles of life Can lead you to despair or ecstatic elation
A club where strangers meet Suddenly become friends Ride the rollercoaster every week And see it through till the end
A club that’s steeped in history With many trophy’s in their cabinet Many more within their grasp The Big Cup in ’67 they never will forget
Champions League and Europa It’s where they aspire to be Barcelona, Real Madrid and AC Milan They’re all the same to you and me
Sometimes they may not win But they always take it with grace They never give up on their club A club they shall never disgrace
For those who don’t understand Why the fans hold this club so dear Just look at the excitement upon their faces When they’re winning year after year.
As usual, it’s down to football fans worldwide to demonstrate their support first for the besieged victims of Israeli fascism in Palestine. Celtic fans, of course, have been at the forefront of this protest and endured the wrath of the FIFA cowards back in 2016 for daring to fly the Palestinian flag.
Celtic Support
This highlighted the typical double standards and hypocrisy of the sport’s administrators who are okay with Ukrainian flags being displayed but not Palestinian and symptomatic of the broader political hypocrisy that condemns oppression and slaughter in one country but watches on or provides tacit support for the same crimes in another. The sickening spectacle of our supposedly ‘democracy’ loving political leaders lining up to support the Israelis only intensifies the hatred of those who can see through this charade. In fact, to many Muslim, the response to this will undoubtedly be more support for the jihadists.
Let us be clear, the cynicism and sophistry of those that declare any opposition to Zionism as a form of anti-semitism is to desecrate the memory of those killed by the Nazis during WW2. These self-justifying definitions of ‘anti-semitism’ only silence legitimate criticism and debate about Israeli crimes against humanity. Zionism IS a form of fascism, based on self-imposed racial concepts of ethnic purity, dubious tribal claims to land and religious dogma. It is a falsehood as nauseating and evil as the Nazi ideology that slaughtered 6 million Jews. To deny this form of fascism as any different to that of the Nazis is to repeat that most evil era of human existence. We should be against fascism in any form, whatever disguise it chooses wears.
Celtic Fans
The football fan community cannot be silenced so easily as our supposed political, religious, intellectual, cultural and sporting ‘leaders.’ Fans don’t bow to the demands of Zionist lobbyists and apologists. The Palestinian flag has been flown at grounds across the world to demonstrate solidarity with the Palestinian people the types of banning orders and restrictions placed upon The Green Brigade and other fan groups will only backfire on those that seek to control the political narrative being spun by our corrupt and bought off media.
HWS invited Commie Lee along to share one of his musings.
By Commie Lee 8th October 2023
A prequel story to the Epic ‘Fun and Frolics’ of the Hibs Casuals saga.
All that follows is entirely fictional and bares no resemblance to anyone living or dead and does not need to be scrutinised by any ‘Bizzy Fuck’ !
‘The Leith Mods’ were never at the Vanguard of any left wing movement and were more interested in Scrapping with Skinheads from neighbouring Edinburgh. Despite fiery left wing Ron Brown’ being their local MP. Some of his left wing confrontationalism must have rubbed off.
It was the early Eighties and the Miners Strike was always in the Headlines. It was all prevalent. Bus loads of outside Policemen would regularly traverse down Leith Walk returning from the flashpoints and heavily policed Coalmines of Bilston Glen and others. It felt that the social drowsiness of the UK was falling apart.
Being Young and the social norm for working class youth to be at odds with the ‘not so local Constabulary’ the Leith Mods would ritualistically stone the passing buses full with Yorkshire Policemen and the like. Being Working class Leithers they had no natural camaraderie with The Police. The direct opposite in fact. Stood to reason !
The Leith Mods kept learning and became very aware of their own prowess. In the early Eighties it seemed that everyone was becoming directly or indirectly politicised.
There was tales of two young Leith Mods disgruntled at a local unscrupulous employer who was known for hiring people for Youth Training Schemes then unceremoniously dumping them at the end of their contracts. Retaliation was justified and the youngsters decided to Petrol Bomb his premises. As you naturally do ? Unfortunately a resulting gas build up saw the Mods being blown unconscious and they served time ! Blessed with bravery if not brains the explosion was epic !
There was the story of a young Leither during ‘Riot Training’ pulling his arm back to throw a bottle of which only resulted in him dousing his parka with lit petroleum ! His mates in an effort to douse the resulting flames rushed for him but being from Leith he assumed his friends were going to give him a beating ?? So he fled from them resulting in a very red faced young Mod running about Victoria Park parka ablaze ! ‘Oh how they later laughed’ !
As the Summer progressed there was strange tales of Parka clad youth engaging in ‘Riot Training’ preparing for imminent ‘class warfare’. The use of ‘Petrol Bombs’ around Leith was becoming all to prevalent.One Mod swears to this day that a surprise visit to his dwelling by the Police led to them finding and securely concealing a pair of petrol soaked leather gloves
Troublesome as they were there, and I’m not suggesting any direct collusion, there was the strange case of a (more) troublesome Rangers supporting family moving into the Fort area of Leith. This ‘Red, White and Blue’ family were in direct contradiction to the Hibs supporting Leith Mods ! One occasion saw a Young Black Mod being viciously beaten this notorious family. They were becoming a real problem in the area. Again I’m not suggesting that ‘Racial Harmony’ was at the fore point of their thoughts but the bloke was a ‘mate’ and this in Leith parlance was ‘sacrosanct’ Retalition was mandatory ! The rascist Rangers supporting family with all that that brought had to go ! To cut a long story short the family were soon Fire bombed out of their home ! The Leith Mods and the local Police had their problems solved !
Times, music and fashions changed as they ultimately do. Bowling Shoes and Desert Boots changed to Adidas trainers and Timberlands. Foes changed from Edinburgh Skinheads to Aberdeen Casuals and the ilk. Trouble had been assured from the off from the Aberdeen Soccer Casuals and the Hibs Casuals, the Capital City Service both battling to be seen as Scotlands Premier Outfit. After a game at Easter Road in one of Scotlands main shopping areas, Princes Street, they clashed ! A solitary flame was ignited and the Aberdeen lot fled as a Petrol Bomb was thrown into their midst. The Aberdeen Casuals were left in no doubt that the Capital City Service wished to claim the Number One spot as their own.
Between You and Me if the full plans for that day had been enacted the Combatants might just be getting released from their Cells now ! Maybe ?
In an interesting aside to all this, a Petrol Bomb being discharged in Scotlands Premier shopping street the press response was strangely muted compared to the frantic hyperbole of the English Press so desperate to tell all who would listen to how crazy their English hooligans were. There seemed to a reluctance to report on how troublesome our own Casuals were. I’m not suggesting that there was any direct collusion between Edinburgh Council and the Lothian and Borders Police in a Major Tourist destination. I doubt whether any of this story would go down well with the Disneyfication of Edinburgh !
It is after all just a made up story ! Wink, wink !
With regards to ‘The Stanley Man’ and ‘Nosferatu’ !
Team HWS embarked on a day trip to research a cool independent clothing shop owned by the interesting and charismatic Brett Rowden. His store, “It Started in the North,” located on Rose Street in Edinburgh, served as the ideal venue. This conversation had long been overdue and aligned perfectly with our themes of music, fashion, subculture, and football.
Thanks for having us Brett.
Starting here at your shop, very impressive with cool images. I like the mix of threads and vinyl like a perfect gold mine and a place to hang out in. Would you say you have a combination of a mod look and a terrace vibe?
Yes, it essentially represents a mix of subcultures. I know many people dislike this label, but it does evoke a sense of retro style.
So, the name of the shop interests us, I think I’ve heard the quote before. Does it relate to Northern Casuals claiming the scene as their own?
Yes, loosely, it was in a kind of tongue-in-cheek way. It was a bit of a joke until we come up with something different or better. From then, when it was mentioned people seemed to like it and with me having a southern accent and having the shop up here in Scotland it was a bit of humour; people then took to it.
I suppose it makes people curious, and it could mean anything you want. The sign is very effective.
The customers and visitors who come in are often curious, sometimes wondering if it could be related to Northern Soul. It can mean whatever you want it to mean. Adding “Edinburgh” to the sign was a great idea that helped clarify its message.
The Cool Gail
I know you prefer to call it the mod movement but for a young age, how and when did your passion start for this?
Random really, my mum was big into Oasis I suppose it went from there so I was always looking deeper. There were also bands like Ocean Colour Scene and a bit of that Britpop thing. However, luckily where I lived there was always a kind of scene and having central London on your doorstep you have the bars, the shops and the record shops. I was buying records at a very young age and that was an image thing more than anything else as it was when CDs were in the main. I credit a lot of it to where I grew up to be honest with you.
Before I even knew what Mod was I was already interested in the ’60s at a very young age. As I say I like to call it a movement as there have been so many types of music attached to going through the decades. It keeps evolving under a loose banner.
London is probably the best city in the world for these things although I think it can be quite fickle?
Yes, 100% especially with the mod movement. It became very insular within and a lot of criticism led to one-upmanship, I didn’t like that.
How did you see Oasis when they came on the go? For us, it looked like very much a football terrace vibe at first. I’m not sure it was manufactured for them but I personally welcomed that as I was coming out of the club scene so it was good timing.
Definitely, and they took some original terrace and mod looks and evolved them. Although I like the football look a lot of it was quite baggy and that didn’t sit too well with me so I probably went more into the mod look and the knitwear. From then I was reverting back into books and magazines and seeing styles more slim cut and the cool knitwear from the ‘60s. Also, there was a lot more music attached to the mod movements I suppose.
I think I mentioned to you before that the mod revival of ’79 didn’t go down well with me. Perhaps it was just the place I was living in then, but these Mods were very much singledimensional with parkas covered in patches such as targets also boating shoes etc. I actually preferred the punks at nine years old then two-tone came.
Agree 100% clones after watching Qudadrophina. The parkas with patches was perhaps influenced by scooter clubs but I didn’t see that as stylish either.
I think when the casuals started although there may have been a crossover, it was a crossover with the original Mods of the ’60s. The link was the attention to detail.
I’ve heard you speak highly of Paul Wellers – Stanley Road album. Is that up there with your best?
I would say so yes, I think it’s like a lot of albums though where you need to be in the mood for certain ones. I think it’s certainly his best. It was like his big comeback it’s different from his early Jam stuff but shows exactly what he can do and it is very original. That’s the thing with Weller, he might split opinions but his stuff is always authentic.
From there, it’s time to give us your other four favourite albums …
Oasis – Definitely Maybe ,
Marvin Gay – What’s Going On
Artic Monkeys – Whatever People Say I Am That’s What I’m Not
Jay Z – Beyond Reasonable Doubt
Then while we’re at it, your top favourite clothing labels?
Fred Perry
Lacoste
Gabicci Vintage
Sergio Tacchini
Art Gallery
We connect or football club as always … Celtic is your team also. Do you get to see them much these days?
Not as much as I would like to these days, I was a season ticket holder up until this season but I had to let it go as I wasn’t getting to the games. I had the ticket for a long time and it actually hurts not having it this season.
Do you expect another long period of domination?
I certainly hope so and I can’t see any reason why not. We seem to be quite financially secure and the recruitment has been spot on,
How do you see the present team? Are you pleased with Brendan Rodgers bring back?
Obviously I’m gutted like everyone else that Ange has left but it’s nothing we’ve not been through before and at least BR has a proven record of success at the club. The transfer window hasn’t exactly filled me with confidence so far, particularly in regards to Europe, but it’s still early days so all we can do is get behind him and the team. One thing I was encouraged by was him signing a three year contract, simply because it shows that the board are looking to make a real long-term investment in him – now they need to back that up with signings!
Returning to the threads. I have recently discussed those early Skinheads with Terry Farley and others on how smart they were in the Ivy League look and of course very mixed race, very cool. Would you agree those Skins were an off-cut Mod back then?
Again it’s that evolvement, I think it was very much working class with a smart representation of yourself. And you mention the Ivy thing, to me that will always be amazing. I mean UK working-class kids finding Ivy League shirts, I mean how cool is that. From affluent American university types. Same with the Italian knitwear the working class kids were perhaps from the polar opposite but they went after the threads. And you mention the mixed-race element, a lot of it was Jamaican music and a lot of Caribbean communities had well integrated and their styles had started filtering through such as pork pie hats and loafers.
I know, Skinheads would never have existed without its black influence.
No! And amazingly elements of it were highjacked by the far-right stuff, but yeah it certainly came from Caribbean music and style. I liked Shane Meddows’ thing – ‘This is England ’86’ it didn’t shy away from the racist element but it also put a massive negative portrayal on it at the same time.
In conversation with A State of Mind, you talked about Fred Perry and its continuous thread through subcultures. I’ve started wearing it again as I see it as a staple possibly for that reason. It’s been mentioned that the casuals dumped Fred Perry for Lacoste. This isn’t factual either. It’s always been there. Northern Casuals wore it under the name Perry Boys. I believe it’s how you wear it?
Completely agree, you get certain people trying to make out they were or are the trendsetters and style makers and because Fred Perry is popular it’s easy to think I have moved on from that. And as you say it was more Northern Casual thing. It was worn with a skinhead or a wedge haircut. But if you look at a lot of old photo books from images from the late 60s and 70s, what’s the recurring brand … it has to be Fred Perry. I mean it’s been questioned if there is such a thing as subcultures now but you look at the 100 Club in London with the bands and their influence. They actually secured the existence of the 100 Club. So, if you want to identify one brand with a subculture then it is Fred Perry.
And yes as you say it is how you wear it. Not everyone may agree but I think there are certain brands or heritage styles that do things better. For example, Fred Perry does the best polo in my opinion whereas a tracksuit I don’t think they do the best; but Sergio does a better tracksuit. Another example would be a Fred Perry hoody might be seen as less of a definition piece but a cardigan or polo more defined. The Made in England range is the best though I think, that’s the M12 polos although slightly more expensive.
Gabbici is another label you stock, this is a favourite of mine also. It also had a crossover with a few countercultures. From Mod, the early Casuals even the London Cabbies?
I associate the Gabbici knitwear with the original London casuals more. Although
Did you go much on the club scene when staying in London, was that your thing?
Yes and no, not overly. I did go but I wouldn’t say I was a clubber. I think I was more into bands and sitting in cool bars talking about this stuff. I think the best days of the club scene were probably before my time to be honest.
That brings us to the last question, did you go much on Andy Weatherall?
Absolutely, 100% yes, when we’re here chatting about clothes he was so innovative with all. What he done with Primal Scream he produced Screamadellica anyone who is innovative like that deserves credit. Then there’s the early Boys Own stuff, I think his legacy speaks for itself. The reaction when had passed away says it all. He broke down barriers.
Cheers, Brett, we could have chatted all day but thanks for having us mate.
Holywell Street 