HWS has finally had the opportunity to read Magnetic a tribute to the late Massimo Osti and his renowned clothing labels: C.P. Company, Boneville, and Stone Island. These prestigious Italian brands need no introduction. The book explores the evolution of these labels as they rose to prominence in the UK from the mid-eighties to the early nineties. I have had the pleasure of knowing Tony Rivers for quite some time, and he has co-authored this insightful work alongside James Burnett.
As the book illustrates, the story is not a tribute to the paninaro scene or the football terraces; rather, it explores how various labels began to establish themselves in the UK, even with celebrities and musicians. Regarding the football terrace scene, I have always maintained that the concept of ‘casuals’ was on the decline, perhaps as early as 1989, before these labels gained widespread popularity. While I did observe elements of it in the ’80s, it became more prominent later on and into the ’90s, particularly within the club scene. I am glad this book considers this assessment to be fairly accurate as well. I also remember Stone Island being much more affordable in the early days and certainly of better quality.
The photos in the book complement its authenticity. They primarily consist of old Kodak pictures that effectively capture the era. The stories are also genuine, as significant effort was made to track down the highly sought-after labels of Massimo Osti. The proper independent retailers are where you were prepared to travel in search of the latest CP Company or Stone Island. The book narrates the story of a young man from Portsmouth who travels to London early in the morning to pick up some new clothes, hoping to return in time for their home match against Charlton. Upon arriving at Waterloo Station, he notices that the Charlton lads are already early and about to make their way to Portsmouth, prompting him to call ahead to his Portsmouth lads. This illustrates the lengths youths would go in pursuit of these threads.
It is an educational document that shares stories from connoisseurs and, more intriguingly, explores shops from a time before online shopping. These shops had a personal touch where people would gather and become familiar with the staff and owners. One amusing story involves the shop Woodies in Cardiff, which had three red Stone Island duffle coats in stock. Two of them were quickly purchased by Tony, the co-author, and a rival lad from Swansea. The third coat was bought by the England goalkeeper at the time, David James. There are debates about which shops in London stocked the labels first. I can recall visiting Woodhouse and Jones in Covent Garden in the early ’90s, and it appears they may well have been the first.
In our opinion, the Osti labels have always had a certain mystique, particularly in their early years. This document helps fill in many of the gaps regarding their history. In addition to those with their roots in working-class backgrounds and football terraces and the club scene, several musicians also embraced these labels, including Nick Heyward, who contributes his own section. Other notable admirers of the labels include Johnny Marr. As mentioned earlier, the old photos some unseen until now, contribute to its authenticity. These include Dermo from Northside and Tim Dorney from Flowered Up wearing the labels. It is very pleasing to see a good tribute and article from Graham ‘Kerso’ Kerr included as well.
The HWS team has been eagerly anticipating this essential coffee table addition, and we believe the wait of two and a half years has certainly been worthwhile. Hats off!
*If you would like to purchase a copy of MAGNETIC, please e-mail magnetic990@gmail.com, providing your full name and address.
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